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Construction (1) Construction (2) Coating & Using Back to Home page

Repair and Maintenance of a Drascombe Lugger

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Obtaining a new Gaff (2)
Tools & Materials

The first page looked at the overall measurements of the gaff and possible profiles. Having obtained all the required measurements, this page looks at obtaining the raw materials and the tools required to construct the gaff.

More on the Gaff Jaws

Stainless steel gaff jaws This photograph shows the stainless steel gaff jaws, as supplied by Churchouse Boats. The basic fitting consists of the jaws welded to a short length of square tube. This tube fits over a square extension (tang) of the wooden gaff yard and the two are screwed together with a stainless steel wood screw. The other part of the fitting comprises two triangular plates drilled to accept a clevis pin. In use, the throat cringle of the mainsail fits between the plates and is held in place by the clevis pin. The jaws are held captive to the mast by a Parrel Bead string (not shown in the photograph), tied to the end of each fork. (Click on image for larger view)

It is worth getting a quote from both suppliers. I paid a little over 65 UK pounds (April 2003), which included carriage. Also make sure that the jaws come with the essential extras;

• Clear pvc rubber tubing (fits over the jaw forks to cushion their movement against the wooden mainmast, preventing damage to the wood).
  
  
• Stainless screw of the right size for securing the jaws to the end (tang) of the gaff yard.
  
  
• Clevis pin for attachment of the mainsail throat cringle.

Details of how the gaff is attached to the steel jaws will be covered after a description of the gaff construction.

What wood to use and how much is needed?

Currently Drascombe spars are constructed by Collars using Sitka Spruce ( Picea sitchensis ) which takes its name from Sitka, the old Russian capital of Alaska on Baranof Island. The tree is also known as Silver Spruce.

John Watkinson's original timber specification for the Lugger spars was Douglas Fir ( Pseudotsuga menziesii ) named after the Scottish botanist, David Douglas, who introduced many of British Columbia's native conifers to Europe. The tree is also known as Columbian or Oregon Pine. Douglas Fir is stronger than Sitka Spruce and doesn't bruise so easily.

Either kind of wood can be used with apparently little difference in price. I decided to use Sitka Spruce as, at the time, I didn't realise that my existing spars were Douglas Fir! The quality and quantity required were specified as follows;

• A sawn length of 'Spar Grade' Sitka Spruce measuring 3,200 mm (10' 6") long x 50 mm x 50 mm (square).

The 'Spar Grade' definition is vitally important as the wood must be of even grain and totally free of knots. The ordered length was slightly in excess of that actually required so that there was more than enough wood left over to make the wedges. There is little point in ordering planed timber as it is more expensive than sawn and in any case will be completely re-shaped during the making of the yard.

Woodworking & other tools

The first essential item is a system for supporting the spar whilst it is being planed and shaped.

Supporting & Holding the Spar Two portable folding workbenches such as the Workmate as supplied by Black & Decker are ideal for this. The photograph shows two such benches set up to hold a Lugger mainmast for some maintenance work. The top of each bench is in effect a wooden vice which can be tightened up to grip the wood securely. If required, padding in the form of towelling, or similar, can be placed between the jaws and the wood to prevent surface damage. This flexible system ensures that the wood can be held firmly in the desired position. The spar or benches can be repositioned relative to each other as the work progresses to allow planing and other shaping operations to be carried out along the whole length of the spar. (Click on image for larger view)

Woodworking tools (Ideal List)

Lee Gable at Collar's suggested the following tools:

• Spar gauge (for marking out lines delimiting the curve of the yard).
• Draw Knife or Power Plane (for fast removal of waste wood).
  
• Jack Plane (for careful removal of wood to marked lines)
  
• Coffin Plane or, alternatively, a Shaping Plane also known as a Spar or Mast Plane (for final rounding of profile prior to sanding)
  
• Spoke-shave
  
• Tenon saw with depth gauge (for accurate sawing of the gaff tang)
  
• Rasp (for rough shaping of the gaff tang)
  
• Sanding block (with 60, 80, and 120 grade sandpaper) for final shaping & smoothing of the wood.

Woodworking tools (Actual List)

I couldn't afford/obtain everything on Lee's list so pictured below are the tools which I had to hand and which were quite adequate for constructing the gaff.

Tools used to make the Gaff. The numbers refer to the following list;

In addition to the illustrated items the following tools were also used;

• Jig-saw (for cutting the spar to the correct length)
• 36-inch-long metal straight-edge for marking out.
  
• Two portable folding workbenches (see photo above)
  
• Bench mounted 'press drill' (for accurate drilling of the lacing holes)
  

Having obtained the wood & all the necessary tools, the next task was to commence marking out and construction of the gaff. This is described on the next page.

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