Workshop Phase 4.
Partition Wall Details

Sketch plan showing dimensions of partition stud framework (as viewed from the vestible part of the garage).

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Sketch plan showing a cross section of the sole plate illustrating how it was fixed to the concrete floor.

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Ratchet spanner with 12mm socket fitted, 10mm diameter 50mm long plastic plug, 7mm diameter 100mm long hexagonal headed coach screw with washer, 20mm spade bit (for drilling clearance hole for the ratchet spanner), 5mm diameter extra long drill bit for drilling right through the 95mm thick timber stud. All the timber was pre-drilled using a drill press. Not shown are the masonry drill bits used to drill into the concrete floor. The components are resting on the sole plate and the photograph also shows one of the coach screws driven home, fixing the sole plate to the concrete floor.

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Sole plate in the process of being screwed to the concrete floor. One problem was the uneveness of the floor. Note that it is easiest to install the soleplate as one unit, with no gap for the doorway. The doorway was cut later (See below).

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Work in progress erecting the partition stud wall.

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Screwing one of the noggins to a vertical stud, August 2015.

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Where the noggin needs to be attached to a vertical stud against the wall, it is impossible to screw through the stud, so metal angle brackets screwed (not nailed) were used instead. I could have used skew screwing, but as I had a lot of builders angle brackets left over from a previous project, it seemed to make sense to use them here.

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Work in progress cutting the gap for the doorway in the partition soleplate. Here the right hand side of the doorway is being created by sawing through the soleplate. Note that plywood wedges have been inserted to compensate for a hollow in the concrete floor beneath the soleplate.

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Here the left side of the doorway is being created by sawing through the soleplate.

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The completed doorway cut in the sole plate.

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Studwork for the Partition Wall completed using 95mm x 70mm timber. As well as screws, metal builders angle brackets were used to secure the vertical studs & noggins to the horizontal sole & wall plate timbers. The doorway is ready to accept the door frame (See illustrated attachment description below).

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Comparison of the original drawing for the partition studwork (top), compared to a photograph of the completed studwork (below).

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Installation of 50mm thick Celotex foil-faced insulation board completed.

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Sheathing of both sides of the partition wall completed (18mm thick OSB above a polythene vapour barrier, fastened to the wooden studs with 5mm diameter, screws 60mm long). The next step will be to attach the door-frame (See next section).

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Sketch plan showing the required dimensions of the door frame in relation to the dimensions of the stud wall framework and OSB sheathing.

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Sketch plan showing the required dimensions of the door frame components constructed from planed softwood 27mm thick.

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The screw holes (for attachment of the frame to the stud framework), were pre-drilled to a diameter of 5mm, and countersunk. Note the use of a drill press to facilitate accurate drilling.

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The door frame components, cut to size being screwed together using clamps and braces.

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Details of brace holding top and side of frame at right angles. The measurements utilise Pythagoras's theorem, relating to the three sides of a right-angled triangle. It states that the square of the hypotenuse (the side opposite the right angle), is equal to the sum of the squares of the other two sides. Here the two sides (400 x 400=160,000) + (300 x 300=90,0000)=250,000) which is the same as the square of the hypotenuse 500 x 500=250,000).

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The completed frame.

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Cutting off the waste wood from the frame top (This is done at both ends of the top).

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The door frame being screwed in position in the doorway of the stud partition wall.

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When screwing the door frame to the studwork, wedges are needed to fill the gaps between the frame and the studs. These can either be made out of wooden offcuts, or you can buy packs of plastic wedges as shown in the photograph. Broadfix Backpacker packing shims are ideal for this. These rot proof, water proof packers come in two sizes; small (53mm x 43mm) and Standard (101mm x 43mm) in 1mm, 3mm, 5mm, 6mm and 10mm thicknesses. The 'gate' feature on the Small Backpacker and the 'comb' feature on the Standard Backpacker have been designed to allow the packer to be pushed over a fixing prior to tightening up and prevent the packer from falling out. More information HERE.

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The door in its original position as a disused external back entrance to the garage. The door probably dates from the building of the garage in about 1930, so (in 2015) was over 85 years old!

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After careful removal of the two single panes of glass (window panels), and hinges, the old layers of paint were removed by a combination of chemical paint stripper, hot air gun and sandpaper.

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New tubular latch and latch plate (right, above), striker plate (left, above), and 10mm square spindle with door-handles (below). It's important to ensure that the spindle aperture on the tubular latch corresponds to the dimension of the spindle purchased with the door handles!

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The hole was 22mm in diameter and 65mm deep (as specified on the latch's fitting instructions). A 22mm spade bit was used for this and it's very important to drill the hole as straight and true as possible.

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With the latch fitted in the hole, a pencil was used to draw round the fore-end of the latch so that a rebate could be chiselled out to enable the latch plate to fit flush with the door edge.

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The Completed Latch Plate Rebate.

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Measuring vertically down, 45mm from the door edge, for the position to drill the 10mm diameter hole for the spindle.

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Important to ensure as far as possible that the hole is at right angles to the door.

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The spindle was slightly too long and was subsequently trimmed using a hacksaw.

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The top of the hinge is 150mm from the top edge of the door. The standard positioning for hinges on a door edge are 150mm down from the top (for the top hinge), and 225mm up from the bottom (for the lower hinge).

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Using a craft knife to incise along the pencil boundary of the top hinge outline. This is a precursor to chiselling out the hinge rebate.

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The completed rebate after chiselling out.

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The hinge fitted and screwed into place.

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Establishing the position of the top hinge on the door frame. After pencilling in the outline, the rebate for the hinge was chiselled out in exactly the same way as for the hinge rebates on the door.

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After screwing the three hinges to the door it was carefully fitted in place by screwing the hinges to the three rebates in the frame. To my relief, the door opened and closed OK within the door frame with no further adjustments required! Using the previously fitted door handle and latch, the next job was to fit the latch plate on the door frame. Replacement glass panels and an architrave surrounding the door frame were also yet to be fitted.

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This was fitted by closing the door gently against the door frame. Using the latch fitted to the door, the top and bottom positions of the latch plate can then be marked, using a pencil, on the door frame. The striker plate is positioned within the markers and, using a pencil, a line drawn round the striker plate and the enclosed area marking the position of the receiving hole. Timber was removed with a chisel to create an overall rebate for the latch plate and also the deeper receiving hole to accommodate the tongue of the latch bolt.

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These were replacements for the two original panes of ordinary glass removed from the door. The replacements were two double glazed toughened glass units manufactured to the same size as the original panes by a company called PANE-LESS GLASS.

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This skirting board measuring 70mm wide and 15mm thick, made an ideal simple architrave for the door.

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Using a mitre block to cut a mitre joint in the bull-nose skirting board for the door architrave.

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The architrave has been nailed into place using panel pins (one of the few occasions I have opted for nailing instead of screwing!). The replacement double glazed glass panels are held in place by means of beading secured with panel pins. The door, plus architrave, has been finished with quick drying (water-based) gloss varnish.

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The completed, fitted door, exterior view.

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